Gasherbrum II Winter Summit
On Wednesday, February 2, at 11:30 in the morning, American-Canadian climber Cory Richards, Italian climber Simone Moro, and Kazakhstan climber Denis Urubko reached the summit of 8035 m Gasherbrum II. The three-man team climbed the peak in three days from base camp. They left their second camp at 6,900 meters at 3 in the morning, pushing to the summit eight hours later. During their descent they encountered deteriorating weather conditions and ran into severe trouble. Richards reported: "We were walking underneath Gasherbrum V and a massive avalanche hit us. All three of us, and knocked us about 150 meters...and launched over one crevasse. And we all ended up on top, mostly on top. I was mostly buried, but my face was out. Denis was mostly buried, but his face was out, and Simone was able to get out of the snow and come dig us out...Everything just went sideways today. We are all very happy and lucky and I think very grateful to be alive. Period."
Tragedy on Baruntse
On October 23, Chhewang Nima Sherpa was caught in an avalanche at 7045m on Mt. Baruntse (7129m) while fixing rope to the summit. Chhewang Nima had ascended Mount Everest 19 times.
Eric Larsen summits Everest in Fall
American polar explorer Eric Larsen and four Nepalese guides have become the first mountaineers in four years to summit Mount Everest during the autumn climbing season. The team took advantage of a brief lull in the weather to push for the summit. The successful ascent means that he became the first person to reach the North Pole, South Pole and summit of Mount Everest all within a year’s time. In January, Larsen and his team successfully completed a 750-mile, 48-day ski traverse to the South Pole. Larsen and a separate team reached the North Pole on April 22 after a 51-day, 500-mile push that included snowshoeing and skiing across shifting sea ice.
Great Himalayan Trail
Nepal will soon open the world's longest and highest alpine trekking route, the Great Himalayan Trail (GHT), stretching some 2,800 miles along the full range of the Himalayan region, is scheduled to be inaugurated on January 14, 2011, in Kathmandu. “The long-term aim is to connect the six Asian countries of Pakistan, China (Tibet Autonomous Region), India, Nepal, Bhutan and Myanmar via a route covering more than 4,500 km of the Great Himalaya range,” said Lisa Choegyal, consultant to the project and Honorary Consul designate for New Zealand in Nepal. The westernmost point of the GHT is the world’s ninth highest peak, Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, and it winds past the sacred headwaters of the Ganges in India, the entire length of Nepal beneath Annapurna, Everest, and Kanchenjunga, through Sikkim then Bhutan and eventually to India’s remote Arunachal Pradesh, Myanmar and Namche Barwa in Tibet.
Thirteen Year Old Summits Mount Everest
On May 22, 2010, thirteen-year-old Jordon Romero from the ski town of Big Bear, California, near the San Bernardino Mountains became the youngest climber to reach the top of Mount Everest.
The previous record holder seems to be disputed as there are two entries at in Wikipedia as. One entry claims that Ming Kipa Sherpa, a 15-year-old Nepalese schoolgirl, had climbed Mt Everest in 2003 from the same northern route via Tibet that Jordan took to circumvent the age restriction imposed by the Nepalese authorities.
Another Wikipedia entry lists Temba Tsheri Sherpa from Nepal as the previously youngest climber to summit Mount Everest on May 23, 2001, at the age of 16 years 14 days. Jordan Romero reached the summit with his dad, a paramedic, his dad's girlfriend, and three Nepalese sherpas. The young Californian has now climbed the tallest mountains on six of the world's seven continents. He summited Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania at age 9. The only peak left for him to climb after Everest is the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, which he is planning to summit in December.
The risks of climbing Everest were highlighted by the challenges faced by 22-year-old Bonita Norris. On May 17, she became the youngest Briton to reach the summit. Following the feat, however, she stumbled on the way down still in the dead zone. She lost the use of both legs and her feet were frozen. She was rescued by a team and carried part way down.
Eun Sun-Oh Climbs all 8000-ers
On April 27, 2010, Oh Eun-Sun from Namwon, South Korea became the first woman to scale all fourteen eight-thousanders after climbing Annapurna. Oh's record has provoked an avalanche of criticism. Some dispute that Oh even reached the peak of Kangchenjunga in Nepal, the world's third-highest summit, suggesting her victory photograph was taken somewhere below the top. A rival South Korean climber produced a photograph of the mountaintop, buried in snow and ice, that he said was proof that Oh's victory photo - showing bare rocks - was taken somewhere below. Oh says she's sure she reached the summit, despite fog and a violent storm. Elizabeth Hawley, widely regarded as the authoritative chronicler of Himalayan expeditions, has described Oh's ascent of Kangchenjunga on her online Himalayan Database as: "Disputed." The Nepal Mountaineering Association acknowledges her accomplishment.
Tomaz Humar dies on Lantang Lirung
The body of the Slowenian alpinist was recovered from the world's 99-th highest mountain in Nepal. He had suffered a spinal injury after falling at the unclimbed 7227m high South Face of LanTang Lirung. He was one of the greatest mountaineers in the world today. in 2005, we rescued in by helicopter from the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat. In 2007, he soloed the South Face of Annapurna.
Altitude Everest Expedition reaches summit
The Altitude Everest Expedition has reached the summit of Mount Everest as part of a mission to resolve the mystery whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reached the summit during their 1924 climb. According to dispatches by the members posted on their website, the climbers reached summit on Thursday, June 14, having left the advance base camp on Sunday. The team is making a documentary investigating Mallory and Irvine's last journey in forensic detail and also test the durability of clothing and equipment similar to that used in the 1924 climb to try to reconstruct their final, fateful hours. Key to the investigation, which is being filmed for a documentary, was the ascent of the infamous Second Step, 1,000ft from the summit. Climbers Conrad Anker and Leo Houlding decided at some point that it was too cold to shun modern hi-tech textiles in favor of replicas of the clothes worn by Mallory Irvine. "Got dressed in period (costume). Walked around corner onto North Face in hobnail-less boots - Did one take and nearly froze," Houlding wrote on the expedition's online diary last week. However, the team successfully free-climbed the Second Step after removing a ladder fixed to the treacherous 100-foot rock wall near the summit. They were the first to free-climb that stretch since a Chinese expedition in 1960. Sir Hillary has already played down the importance of the mystery, saying that what matters is not reaching the top first - but making it down alive to tell the tale.
Conrad Anker and Leo Houlding climbing the Second Step without ladder.
First Woman to
ski off Mount Everest
Kit DesLauriers of Jackson Hole became the first woman to ski off the summit of Mount Everest. She is also the first person to ski from the summit of the highest peak of all seven continents. More ...
Antonio Delgado found dead on Nanga Parbat
The body of one of Latin America's best known climbers, Jose Antonio Delgado, has been found on killer mountain Nanga Parbat in Pakistan. Delgado's body was found on Saturday at a height of 7,000 metres (22,965 ft), Manzoor Hussain, of Pakistan's Mountaineering and Climbing Federation told the Associated Press news agency. "Our team collected his belongings for his family. We have buried him where he was found." Delgado was found some 400 metres from his tent. He had reached the summit on 12 July but went missing during a snowstorm on his way down. It is believed that the 41 years old Venezuelan climber may have lost his life while braving the snow storm that engulfed Nanga Parbat during the last week. More ...
Mallory's clothing passes test
When Mallory's body was found on Everest in 1999, researchers took samples of his clothing to be analyzed to see if it was plausible that climbers could have reached the summit of the world's highest mountain before Sir Edmond Hillary did it in 1953. Now, forensic textile experts from the United Kingdom unveiled the recreated clothing, made of silk, gabardine, wool, and cotton last fall. Over the last few weeks, climber Graham Hoyland has been putting the replica clothing through its paces on Everest and the results revealed that the materials were particularly effective in protecting against the cold at high altitudes. The researchers say the outer layers of gabardine provide a tough, water-resistant shell. Add in the other layers, and the scientists say the entire garment was quite effective in trapping warm air near the skin. As a bonus, the old-style clothing was 20 per cent lighter than the gear that climbers take to the mountain today. Hoyland says the old clothes are also more comfortable to wear than the new ones. The fit is better, he says, and there's none of the irritation that modern day synthetics can cause.Though George Mallory and Sandy Irvine's attempt to climb Mount Everest ended in both their deaths more than 80 years ago, it turns out that their clothes were as warm as most worn for the trip today, and possibly warmer. More ...
Lincoln Hall rescued on Everest
After spending one night in the open at 8700m, Australian Lincoln Hall was found by climbers on the morning of 5/26. MountEverest.net reports that Dan Mazur reached Lincoln on his way to the summit with some clients, and found him still alive. Lincoln was provided with oxygen, tea, and drugs. He was transported down to the camp at North Col 7000m by his team around team leader Alex Abramov.
MountEverest.net: "Australian Lincoln Hall (50) is an Everest veteran and one of Australia’s most renowned climbers. He was a member in the first Australian expedition to summit Mount Everest back in 1984, following a new route across the North face and Norton Couloir. The team climbed in light style, without supplementary O2. The resulting route was called White Limbo, also the title of a book written by Lincoln afterwards."
Earlier this month, British mountaineer David Sharp desperate for oxygen had collapsed along one of the main routes to the summit. Dozens of climbers alegedly saw him and continued their ascents. Sir Edmund Hillary called this incident "horrifying". More ...
of successful summits during Everest season 2006
The first summit of the season by a Westerner occurred May 10 when John Bagnulo, of the Summit Climb Expedition team, summited at 9 a.m. He climbed from the north side with a partner, who did not complete the climb.including the first successful summit of a double amputee by Mark Inglis, a climber with HIMEX, became the first successful double amputee climbing Everest on May 15, according to his Web site. Apa Sherpa, a local guide, reached the summit of Everest for a record-setting 16th time. In total, the confirmed death toll has reached a reported nine so far this year which marks the 10th anniversary of the 1996 Everest disaster. More ...
Granheim skis North Face of Everest, his partner Tomas Kenneth Olsson
Norwegian Tormod Granheim successfully completed a ski descent of Everest’s north face on Tuesday, but his partner, Swede, Tomas Kenneth Olsson, vanished on their joint descent after falling above 8,000 m in an area known as “the Death Zone.” His body was recovered several dayys later by sherpas searching the area. Olsson is the second to die of the three men who have attempted to ski down the north face. The first ski descent of Everest was made by Slovenian Davo Karnicart, in 2000. More ...
Six climbers first on Everest in 2006
Three Nepalis and three Tibetans of Moutain Experience, a commercial mountaineering firm in Kathmandu, became the first climbers to summit Everest this year. "These guys have 27 Everest summits between them. This achievement has been the culmination of the team making the most of this perfect weather to finish the running out of the fixed ropes on this side of Everest," AFP quoted Tam Ding Sherpa, manager of Mountain Experience, Nepal. More ...
Austrian mountaineer Harrer dies
Renowned Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer - whose life was portrayed in the book and film Seven Years in Tibet - has died at the age of 93.
Harrer was the first person to climb the north face of Switzerland's famous Eiger mountain in 1938. More ...
Photograph of Eiger Nordwand by Gerhard Radermacher © 2000
mountaineering team killed on Mount Kang Guru
Seven French climbers and 11 Nepalese mountain guides were killed in an avalanche last on Mount Kang Guru (6981 m) in the northwest of Nepal, the head of the Himalayan Rescue Association said. More ...
Lorenzo Gariano's account of the 2005 Everest North Face Climb
For April and May 2005, adventurer Lorenzo Gariano was part of a ten-man collaborative expedition between 7summits.com and the 7summits club from Russia, led by Alex Abramov and Harry Kikstra, to the North Face of Everest. See his pesentation on his experiences, together with some of the fantastic photos he took.
Messner's Brother Found on Nanga Parbat ?
Islamabad: Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner has identified the remains of his brother Guenther whom he had lost in 1970 during the climb down the 8,125-metre Nanga Parbat peak in Pakistan. More ...
Ed Viesturs climbs Annapurna
On May 12 at 2 p.m. Nepal time, Ed and Veikka Gustafsson reached the top of Annapurna completing 14th and final 8,000-meter peak. Annapurna is arguably the most dangerous 8,000-meter peak in the world. This climb makes Viesturs the first American to complete all 8,000-meter peaks. More ...